Special treat: The Villa Gallici has the required 18th-century country-house sumptuousness and 21st-century five-star standards (0033 442 232923; villagallici.com; doubles from £192).
4pm: Stroll the Cours Mirabeau, from the vast Rotonde roundabout and fountain. The Cours is the heart of the city and its self-image - grandiose, graceful and spiced with civilised café life.
5.30pm: Talking of which, pop in for an early sharpener at the Café de Deux Garçons. Insist on your order, or the waiters will ignore you.
St Sauveur cathedral features an amalgam of architecture from the fifth to 17th-centuries. Somehow, it's all harmonious. Note particularly the cloisters, and Froment's magisterial triptych.
12.30pm: Return to the centre for lunch on the Forum des Cardeurs by the town hall. The square groans with restaurants. Try Le Coquet at N°2 (0442 234621; two- course lunch £13.50).
8pm: Apértifs at the chic, funky, cocktail-laden La Rotonde (it's also the name of a bar at 20 Place Jeanne-d'Arc ; (0442 916170; larotonde-aix.com).
9.30am: Saunter to the Musée Granet (it opens at 10am), Aix's main gallery (Place St Jean de Malte; 0033 442 528832; museegranet-aixenprovence.fr; £3.50).
