The ribs—the best in the area—aren’t too big or thick; the meat’s tender succulence compels you to gorge even if you’ve promised not to.
The best dishes, such as the ground-beef-and-potato-hash picadillo, the warm, crunchy ham croquetas, and the chicken soup with rough-cut veggies and hunks of meat, have a soulful simplicity.
A trip here is incomplete without a sampling of pupusas—crispy corn cakes oozing fillings such as bean-and-cheese or cheese-and-zucchini and served with a crunchy cabbage slaw.
The cooking is sure-handed and consistent, excelling in a variety of ways: roast fowl and game (duck and chicken boast burnished, crispy skins and tender meats) and tightly sauced stir-fries.
Steaks are of very good quality, from the $19.99 hanger to the $35.99 rib eye called a cowboy cut. They no longer come with free sides, but in steakhouse land, $5 for mashed potatoes is a steal.
